Savoring the Flavors of the Maghreb & Southern Italy
Despite the fact that Italian food has earned top rank as both the world's and the United States' favorite cuisine, there are still many layers of regional flavors that remain unknown outside of their respective communities. Among these "culinary time capsules," as I like to call them, are the Italian flavors of North Africa. "Maghreb" is the Arabic word for "sunset" which was given as the Arabic name of the modern-day country of Morocco because it was the Western-most country of the Arab world, from where the sun sets.
The term was also used to describe not only modern day Morocco, but also Tunisia, Algeria, Mauritania, and parts of Libya. Under Arab rule, the territory which was once coveted and called Numidia Quadrata by the Romans, became known as the Maghreb. Valuable not only for its central position in the Mediterranean trade routes, the region drew Italian Jews who were seeking refuge from religious bias, Italians and other Europeans seeking political exile, business people searching for new trade opportunities, and those fleeing Italy as a part of the great emigration in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Groundwork for the cross-cultural influences of Italy and the Maghreb have been documented since Greco-Roman, Phoenician, and Byzantine times. In 827 CE the Aghlabids of what is now modern day Tunisia founded Palermo, bringing lemons, oranges, mulberry, marzipan, couscous, and much more to Europe for the first time.
Less than a century later came the Fatimids to claim Sicily, who introduced multi-religious festivities where Jews, Christians, and Muslims celebrated together, enjoying nougats and sesame candies in harmony. After two millennia of of cross-cultural convergence, deciphering which dishes originated were can be difficult to the uninformed palate.
Modern day Maghreb offers a cuisine based on a strong Amazigh foundation and enriched by more than 2,000 years of trade with people around the Mediterranean. Just like the region's architecture, its' cuisine was formed by artisans from scores of Arab dynasties, Jewish influence, and European - namely French, Spanish, and Italian accents, resulting in a tapestry of flavors all its' own. In Flavors of the Maghreb & Southern Italy, Chef Alba Carbonara Johnson who was born in Naples and raised in Tunisia, along with my cookbook mentor Sheilah Kaufman and dear friend Paula Miller Jacobson provide a lens into one of the Italian diaspora's most overlooked cuisines. Flipping through the pages of this book, I'm instantly transported back to the kitchens of North Africa where heady aromas and intricate textures abound. One glance at the recipes presented by Chef Alba and I know that I'm in for a treat - a chance to experience her Tunisia, and the region which many Italians fled to instead of coming to America.
A must read for anyone interested in expanding their Italian culinary repertoire or learning more about North African history and the Italian diaspora, Flavors of the Maghreb & Southern Italy provides both mouth-watering and exquisitely written recipes with memoire, instructions on how to shop, and inspiration to get even the most unmotivated cook back into the kitchen. Here are two recipes which I love and highly recommend for your fall and winter tables. I'll be making the Seffa Couscous for Yennayer, Amazigh New Year which falls on January 12, 2024, as it was created by the indigenous people of the region and is typical for this occasion.
Seffa Couscous for Festive Occasions
In the Maghreb, sometimes couscous is served at the end of the meal as a delicacy called "Seffa," which is made with dried fruit, almonds, cinnamon, and sugar. It is traditional to serve seffa with milk flavored with orange blossom water as a dessert or with milk whey as a light soup for dinner. This North African dish is customarily served in large mounds during festive gatherings such as weddings and anniversaries. And when a guest comes to your home, seffa is offered as a symbol of generosity, friendliness, and warmth.
Ingredients
3 cups dry couscous
1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cups boiling water
2 teaspoons rosewater
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted and warm
3/4 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup pitted dried apricots, whole or sliced
1/2 cup pitted dates, whole or sliced
1/2 cup slivered almonds, lightly toasted
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
Brown sugar to serve
Directions
Place the dry couscous in a large bowl and drizzle the oil on top. Rub the couscous between your hands to coat the couscous with oil. You will know that the couscous is well coated if some pellets stick to your hands. Add the salt, and season with pepper. Run your hands through it one more time to mix well. Pour in the boiling water and rosewater; quickly stir with a wooden spoon. Cover the couscous with a plate, and let it sit, undisturbed, for at least 10 minutes. Once the couscous is ready, remove the plate, and use a fork to break up and loosen the couscous.
Add the melted butter and stir with a wooden spoon until well blended. Gently fold in the raisins, apricots, and dates. Transfer the couscous to a festive platter and create a mound in the shape of a cone. Scatter the toasted almonds around the base of the mound. Sprinkle cinnamon around the mound creating either a stripe or dot pattern.
Serve at room temperature with a small bowl of light brown sugar on the side for your guests to sprinkle on top.
From Flavors of the Maghreb & Southern Italy by Alba Carbonaro Johnson, Paula Miller Jacobson and Sheilah Kaufman (Hippocrene Books, Inc.)
Cauliflower Frittelle
Not having a lot of money when I was a child, we needed to be creative with leftovers. Making frittelle (fritters) was a delicious way to use leftover vegetables with fresh eggs. Frittelle and a slice of bread would certainly fill the belly. This is a dish I make often when I see cauliflower on sale. My kids were not fond of cauliflower, yet whenever I made these frittelle, they ate many of them. Cauliflower Frittelle is a dish I am proud to serve to family or guests.
Ingredients
1 head cauliflower, cut into florets
Kosher salt
1/2 cup finely grated carrots
4 to 5 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
3 large eggs, beaten
1 1/2 cups shredded Parmesan, plus more for serving
2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley leaves, plus more for serving
Freshly ground black pepper
Light olive oil for frying
Directions
In a medium saucepan, boil the florets in salted water until completely tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Reserving ½ cup of the water, drain well in a colander. While the cauliflower is still in the colander, press it with your fingertips or a fork to release any remaining water.
In a large bowl, using a fork, mash the cauliflower to a rough but even consistency (or use a food processor and pulse 3 to 4 times). Press out as much liquid as you can. Measure 6 cups of the cauliflower; reserve any remaining cauliflower for another use. Return the cauliflower to the large bowl. Add the carrots, 4 tablespoons flour, and eggs; mix well. Next, add the Parmesan, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Combine well. The consistency should be like thick pancake batter. If it’s too thin, add a little more flour; if it’s too thick, add some reserved water.
Line a baking sheet with paper towels; set aside.
Pour 1/8 inch oil in a large nonstick skillet. Heat the oil over medium-high heat. Scoop ¼-cup portions of the cauliflower mixture, and drop them gently into the oil, three to four at a time. Do not overcrowd the pan. Allow each frittella to cook undisturbed for a few minutes before turning it over to the other side. The frittelle should be golden on top and bottom, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Continue this process until you have used up all of the cauliflower mixture. If the skillet becomes too dry toward the end of the frying process, add a drizzle of oil. If the frittelle are browning too quickly, reduce the heat slightly. As the frittelle are ready, place them on the prepared baking sheet to drain any excess oil. Top these warm frittelle with additional parsley and shredded cheese—try to eat just one!